Hope and Wander

Zion is a fantastic place to visit if you’re looking for an action-packed park where you can see all the highlights in a short amount of time. Zion receives nearly 5 million visitors annually, making it the third most visited park, behind Great Smoky Mountains and the Grand Canyon. It attracts this many visitors for good reason! Zion’s mountains, canyons, and winding rivers are nothing short of jaw dropping.

The Narrows and Angels Landing are among the most popular trails here and each are very unique hikes, compared to what I’ve experienced. They are both located along the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive at the South entrance. I’d recommend spacing these hikes out on different days because each can be rather strenuous, but there are several other beautiful shorter hikes you can fill your day with in between to see more of what the park has to offer.

Day 1

• Rent dry pants/suit and hiking stick from Zion Outfitters (can be picked up either the morning of your hike or the evening prior)
• Hike the Narrows (Bottom Up to Big Springs) – 8.9 mile out-and-back (695 ft elevation gain)
• Hike Many Pools Trail – 2.3 mile out-and-back (544 ft elevation gain)
• Hike The Watchman Trail – 3.1 mile out-and-back (636 ft elevation gain)

Starting the Narrows hike early is key to beating the crowd. We got our wading gear the evening before, so we could take the first shuttle into the park come morning time. When the Zion Canyon Shuttle System is operating, Zion Canyon Scenic Drive is only accessible by shuttle, so you’ll have to park your car in the Visitor Center lot and ride the shuttle to get to the trailhead. The first shuttle leaves at 6am or 7am depending what time of the year you go.

I recommend the gear because the water can be very cold (we went in April) and unexpectedly deep in some parts! I consider myself a pretty agile person, but I was slipping often on the rocks or stepped into pockets that sent the water up to my chest. It was incredibly fun, but a hiking stick may have made it a little easier on me. The waterproof backpack we rented saved our cameras and snacks on multiple occasions. As the sun started to reach the bottom of the slot canyon, all the beautiful red and oranges of the Navajo Sandstone started to emerge. It was a breath-taking experience.

I wasn’t able to hike Many Pools this trip, but it was recommended by several locals, so it’s on my list for the next visit! The Watchman Trail can be started right from the Visitor Center. It is a pretty moderate trail – definitely has some incline, but it doesn’t take too long. This is a great sunset hike to avoid that intense afternoon sun. At the top, you have a lovely viewpoint with the large expanse of land and mountains in the distance.

Day 2

• Rent E-bike and ride the Pa’rus Trail and Zion National Park Scenic Drive
• Hike all the way up to Angels Landing Trail (permit required) – 5.4 mile out-and-back (1,827 ft elevation gain) or Scout Lookout via West Rim Trail – 3.6 mile out-and-back (1,115 ft elevation gain)
• Hike Emerald Pools Trail – 3 mile loop (620 ft elevation gain)

Renting an E-bike is a peaceful and rewarding way to explore the park. We saw lots of deer and turkey on our ride. There are a few slight inclines, so I’m glad I had the assistance of the electric bike because I’m not sure I would have made it up as smoothly on a normal bike! With the E-bikes, you don’t have to wait around for the shuttles and can explore at your own pace. We rented from Zion Outfitters again for the bikes ($79).

I was lucky enough to plan my trip to Zion just before the NPS implemented their pilot permit program for Angels Landing. Hopefully, this helps the crowds on the trail though because the chain section could be dangerously packed with people at certain times. Here’s the website link for information on how to obtain a permit: https://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/angels-landing-hiking-permits.htm. That being said, even if you don’t have a permit, I still think it’s absolutely worth it to hike up to Scout Lookout. The challenge of the seemingly never-ending switchbacks and gorgeous views along the way of the valley below are worthwhile.

Take your time going up the chains and don’t rush to go around others. It is one way, so people will be coming down the same way you are going up. Most people were very respectful and would let you finish a section before going past you. I was a little nervous because I have a fear of heights, but it wasn’t really a technical hike. We actually hiked this on my birthday, so when we reached the very top, we celebrated with a half-melted slice of cake. A few other kind strangers sang happy birthday as well! I felt so proud that I had accomplished this hike. The picturesque blue skies and microscopic rivers and trees far below had me feeling like I was literally on top of the world.

The Emerald Pools Trail is a fairly easy hike and it’s shaded most of the way. The view of the river along the trail was my favorite part. We made it to the Lower Emerald Pool when my friend realized she had forgot her phone over in the grassy area in front of the Zion Lodge. We sprinted back and luckily someone had turned it in to the lost and found. We were there when the water in the pool was rather low (same with the waterfall), so it was a little underwhelming, but maybe it’s better during a different time of the year. Still an enjoyable trail, regardless!

Food recommendations

• Whiptail Grill – I had their spaghetti squash enchiladas and I haven’t stopped thinking about them since. I was so obsessed that I went home and found a copy recipe to recreate them at home: http://cookingwithkai.blogspot.com/2012/01/spaghetti-squash-enchiladas.html.
• Deep Creek Coffee Company – Great place for drinks (wide assortment of coffees, teas, smoothies) and breakfast. The views sitting outside this cute cafe were phenomenal.
• MeMe’s Cafe – Fantastic crepes and burgers!
• FeelLove Coffee Zion – Great place to grab a coffee/tea and a pastry before entering the park. Very friendly workers.
• Red Rock Roasting Company – We stayed at a hotel in Hurricane, so this restaurant was on our way each evening (and we ate here both evenings…it was that good). Enjoying pizza and a beer after a long day of hiking was just the cherry on top. This restaurant has outdoor seating with a view of the Virgin River in the valley below (good spot to watch the sunset). Mouthwatering cinnamon rolls and breakfast sandwiches as well.

I understand why Zion is one of the most visited National Parks now and it’s made it’s way into my top 5 favorite parks in the U.S. In 2021, Zion National Park became certified as an International Dark Sky Park, so taking time to observe the night sky from a campsite or pullout can be a magical experience.

Zion was pretty easy to access – we flew into Las Vegas, spent the day scrambling around Red Rock Canyon like little goats, and then made the 3 hour drive over to Zion. On my next trip, I think I’ll take the 30 minute detour on the way to Zion to stop and explore Valley of Fire State Park. Hiking The Subway Trail in Zion will also be my next feat when visiting. Let me know if you’ve been here or if you recommend any other hikes in Zion that you absolutely love!

Happy exploring!